Steering Problems?

challenger6pak

New Member
My bronco is able to steer much farther (too far) to the right than it will to the left. I need to get the steering centered.

I have a 76 power steering box. Will I be able to pull the pitman arm off and then put it back on with the shaft centered, or are the splines keyed so the pitman arm will only go on one way?


thanks,
matt
 
I think you can just lengthen or shorten your steering rod. (I think thats what its called)

What year is your bronco? I've been working on finding a powersteering box for my 69. Its got a manual in it now, but I need power steering. I've got one that will go in, but its for a 92 truck and I'd have to move the radiator and I'd really rather not go through the hassle.
 
You can't move the pitman arm on the box, there are 4 splines at 12,3,6,& 9 oclock.
You have to cut the drag link (steering arm to tie-rods) and have threads cut into it with an adjustment sleeve like your tie-rod has. When lifting the bronco it does this. You might also need an adj trac bar,.
 
It is a 67 Bronco, with a 76 steering box and shaft put in. I would give you more details but I wasn't the one who did the swap.

Broncoholics, If there are splines at 12, 3, 6, and 9 then they are evenly spaced and won't I be able to rotate the shaft a 1/4 turn?
The steering is way off and it is only lifted 2 in.

thanks,
matt
 
Well, if its that far off, yes you can move it 1/4 turn. It would be weird to be that far off but it could be worth checking. Does the pitman arm face exactly straight backwards when both tires are straight? Its suposed to be. Could be that the last guy installed it when the steering was turned and didn't notice.

My 68 Bronco used to turn sharp to the right and not to the left until I got an adjustable trac bar to center the axle under the truck after the lift. Then the steering arm (drag link) had to be adjustable to get it centered as well. Sounds like yours is off more than mine was. Its a quick check (1 nut) Let me know...
 
Yeah now that I messed around with it and measured it I think it might just be the track bar. It's not really that far off. Who did you buy your adjustable track bar from?

Thanks for the good information, it is much appreciated.

matt
 
You can buy an adjustable trac bar from almost all the major Bronco suppliers these days for $100 or so.
Most are the same bar you have now with polyurathane bushings but cut in half with threads and a sleeve added for adjustment. I like the heim joints becasue they don't wear out as fast. www.performanceunlimited.com has a good set-up but its spendy. You can always make your own. If you need a write up on it let me know.

When looking down the side of your bronco from the front, does the drivers tire or passenger tire stick out further? Mine was the passenger side due to the drop trac bar Duff sold me. It has 2 holes. The left hole pushed the tires to the passengerside. The right hole pushed it to the drivers side, both would not even it. I drilled a hole inbetween them for the quick fix but an adjustable trac bar is the way to go.
 
Yeah my tire sticks out to the driver side a little due to the moderate lift and lack of adjustable track bar.

Thanks for the information.

matt
 
So that 76 box you have in, Is that out of a bronco or a pick up, or are they the same thing? Did it fit right in, did you have to get a bracket for it?
 
The box and steering column from a 76-77 Bronco. I did not put it in myself, it was on when I bought it, but there are no extra brackets that I can see for the box, and the p.s. pump looks like it bolted on with the stock brackets.

If you need any pictures or more info just ask.

matt
 
Thats Ok, I just needed to know if them years would still fit in an early bronco. The pump will be no problem at all.

Thank You.
 
If this helps, the F150 box mounts on the inside frame rail with a bracket unlike the stock setup on the outside.
The F150 set-up does OK but I found some early Ford Vans with good systems. If you have ever driven a Ford van you know how easy that steering wheel turns.

Most aftermarket 3 turn lock to lock systems are nice but very spendy.
I'm just going to have my stock box converted for hydraulic lines and add a ram and ditch the drag link and pitman arm for like $300 complete. Seems cheaper this way but I have friends in this end of the business...
 
Here's something to think about.

Trac bars need heim joints on each end for long travel suspensions.
As the front axle drops down in moves in an arc which causes bind in the poly bushings and will actually twist the bar slightly as it drops. This causes the poly bushings to fail quickly. I couldn't believe how much twist I got in my trac bar after going to heim joints and it added more front end travel. Now I can lift a tire 48" off the ground and keep the other 3 on the ground! :lol: I'll have photos soon.

Same for rear leafs using traction bars. As rear leafs drop the shackle moves forward and creats and arc pattern. Most traction bars are ridged and only move up and down which will not allow the suspension to drop all the way. What you need is a shackle on the end of the bar. Its also a good idea to add a heim joint for the twist like the bottom photo shows. The bottom arm should be mounted lower than this photo shows so it can help protect the driveline. The top photo is another good idea that does not decrease articulation but a heim joint should be used to help. My 2 cents...
 

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