Steering Problems

[NY68BroncoVT]

I've had this problem with greater or lesser degree for a long time. Right now, it's at it's worst.

I drive down the road, my wheels are aligned, everything seems smooth, and then my steering pulls to the left (usually) and I have to counter it by pulling the steering wheel to the right. After a few seconds, it's like something snaps or shifts, and the truck isn't pulling to the left anymore and I have to compensate for the fact that I've been countering the left pull. It's disconcerting at 40 mph, and downright bone-chilling on the highway.

I have been told it could be ball joints--They check out okay

Maybe my tires--aggresive, but even tread almost new in front. A little cupped in the rear, but not horrible. 235-75-15 Goodyear Workhorse.

-I've replaced my radius arm bushings
-I've replaced the C bushings
-I removed the steering stabilizer thinking the piston may have worn out.
-My steering column inside could probably do with a rebuild because it doesn't turn super-smooth, and makes some mild clunking noise inside the column, but I'm pretty sure that isn't the problem.
-My steering box (manual) doesn't wiggle, and is connected fine on the frame, but one mechanic said that he would take it apart to look at it--$60 per hour

I don't see anything too loose in the steering linkage, except some minor movement where the drag link connects to the tie rods.

Are the symptoms any kind of classic indication of a problem that I haven't thought of yet? What should I check? I don't have a huge budget to replace everything or I would have by now.

 

[Broncoholics]

You didn't mention trac bar bushings. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly with engine off and look at the trac bar bushings, tie-rods and steering box. My bet its the trac bar bushings. I have to replace mine few times a year. If not look at how much the steering shaft is turning VS. the pitman arm moving. If its less in the pitman arm the gears are worn in the box. You can slightly adjust the gears yourself right on top or the side of the box you will see an allen head with a nut. Loosen the nut and do a 1/2 turn at a time and feel with the steering wheel if its getting tighter or loose. If it gets worse you went the wrong way. Count back the turns and adjust the other direction until it takes out the slop.
You don't want it super tight, give 1" of play in the steering wheel in either direction. Eventually the box will have to be rebuilt. Thats a good time to go power steering.

 

[4xfan78]

I think that broncoholics has it right, if that is not it I would check the wheel bearings. It sounds like something is binding but without seeing it or driving it it's hard to tell.

 

[Broncoholics]

Yeah, jack up the front end and grab the tire (top and bottom),
see if you can wobble the tire. Then look to see if its the wheel or ball joints.
Some tires will grab the cracks in the road espically while giving gas.
It still sound like trac bar bushings. Mine does this when they are toast.
Rod ends too...

 

[DragonDave]

If all of those ck out ok, get in touch with Seabronc.....I'm pretty sure I seen him answer a question that was very similar to your problem and hit it it right on the nail head

 

[Seabronc]

There are two not too uncommon problems I know of that cause this kind of steering problem.

1. Is an unsolicited partial engaging of the a front hub, combined with bad bearings in the axle. The hub engages for a while then lets loose. On my truck this was caused by a hub not being properly installed and bad bearings on the drive axle. Another guy on the forum had the same symptom for basicly the same reason, his hub was bad and he had bad bearings with the axle starting to freeze up.

2. Is a brake caliper hanging up and causing the pull and then suddenly letting loose with a clunk sound. On my truck this was caused by old calipers that didn't retract when pressure was let off the brake, in effect keeping the brake pads squeezing on the rotor and suddenly retracting.


Hope this gives you something to look at.

Good luck,

>-

 

[NY68BroncoVT]

Thanks Seabronc and others,
I'll look into these things and respond when I figure it out. Seabronc, I never would have thought of those possible problems. Thanks.

 

[NY68BroncoVT]

I wonder if this could be a factor.
I got underneath again and grabbed the tie rods. I can move them rotationally about 3/4". They don't go side to side, but they easily turn, also moving the draglink connection just with my hands.
Is 3/4" movement rotationally too much? How tight are new tie rods. Would I get that same movement with new ones?

 

[4xfan78]

As long as the tie rods do not move from left to right I would not worry. If you lock the stearing wheel lift the front of the truck up. Grab the tire and try turning it left to right (moving the tire about 1 or 2 inches) while doing this look at the stearing components, if there is anything wrong you will or should see it ( usually helps to have another person with you). Like someone else said when its up try moving the tire up and down to check the ball joints and also the wheel bearings.

 

[NY68BroncoVT]

Well Seabronc,
I think you're on to something. I bought new tie rods, draglink, and trac bar bushings. They were delivered today. I started having second thoughts about whether or not I bought parts that would not be the solution.
So I made an appointment with the local shop here in Vermont that is well respected. The mechanic was under the rig for two hours, most of that time with a helper, and could not find anything loose or bad, except the track bar bushings and a leak on one of the front wheel cylinders. He was baffled. BTW he was scared sh*tless when he test drove the car.
I asked him about the brakes, and whether or not he thought they may be grabbing, and I could almost see a light bulb go on over his head. He believes that the wheel cylinder may be binding and then releasing.
I need new brakes in front, so I'm replacing those in a few days.
I'll keep you posted as to whether or not binding brakes are the problem.