Lift Blocks (rear), To Wedge, Or Not To Wedge?

DanaDRD · Jul 23, 2004

I purchased some Superlift lift blocks to raise the rear of my 1982 Bronco 2. The installation instructions that came with the Superlift block does not say anything about the factory wedge used on the stock Broncos suspension system. Do the Superlift blocks install between the stock factory wedge and the leaf spring, or do you discard the factory wedge? How will this effect the differential pinion angle?

4xfan78 · Jul 23, 2004

Is the superlift blocks angled or are they straight, are the steel or aluminium?

DanaDRD · Jul 23, 2004

Thanks for your reply. . . .

The Superlift blocks are made of cast-iron, and yes they are angled. The footprint of the Superlift block is much larger than the welded perch on the differential axle tube. The footprint of the Superlift block fits nicely on top of the factory wedge. If I discard the wedge I will need to weld a plate on the differential perch to properly support the Superlift block. Which brings me back to the original post-----To Wedge or Not to Wedge, and pinion angle?

Broncoholics · Jul 23, 2004

I'd say if its easier to use the wedge and it doesn't create too much angle on the pinion, then use it. The wedge isn't tall enough to add more lift so you should be OK. Keep those u-bolts tight. After a few days check them again and make sure they are tight. After that they should be good to go. Your instinct will tell you what to do.

4xfan78 · Jul 23, 2004

If the superlift blocks are angled then I would not use the wedge's. Using the wedges will only cause you problems, thats why the blocks you have have an angle on them.

Kennel_Dog · Jul 25, 2004

Ummm....I`m starting to hate modifications

When I bought my 4" lift it came with 3" blocks for the rear. They are cast iron and angled also. The instructions never mentioned the factory wedge so I put them on top of the originals and carried on.
So, if I understand correctly you guys are saying this is a bad thing to do. My problem is if I take out the originals the front will be way higher than the back.
Is it possible to weld both of them together or would you guys recommend bying new, bigger blocks ? or is the another solution ?.
BTW the differential pinion angle looks good to me, but remember I`m only a duck taper

>-

Justshootme84 · Jul 27, 2004

I've always kept the wedges, and installed the blocks between them and the leaf springs. The only reason you should not use the wedges is if the driveshaft-pinion angle is not zero or very close to "0". A thin shim may even be needed, between the block and wedge. You can have a 4wd shop check the anlge for you, even if it looks O.K. I had to use a 1" block under my lifted spring packs to level the ride height and correct the ds angle. Otherwise, you will go thru ujoints every month or two.

4xfan78 · Jul 27, 2004

The only problem with putting more than one thing between the axle and the spring is it has a very good chance of moving even if it's torqued properly. Which will snap the u-bolts holding the rearend in place. Mine did exactly that I hade 3" blocks with weadges. I fixed the problem by buying 4" aluminium block and cutting the correct angle in them myself. Been working great and have not broke a u-joint in almost 2 years.

Kennel_Dog · Jul 27, 2004

I like the idea of buying 4" aluminium block and getting them cut, I think thats the way I`ll go, thanks 4x.

Broncoholics · Jul 27, 2004

Wow, I guess it can happen. My 96 F350 comes stock with a dual block under the leafs. One is a wedge and the other is for height. We better drop Ford an e-mail hu?

4xfan78 · Jul 28, 2004

Yeah real hard to drive a 4spd when 2 out of 4 u bolts are broken, rearend dancing all over the road.

4xfan78 · Jul 28, 2004

As far as cutting the blocks. Use an angle finder mark the blocks and use a chop saw, works perfect.

freak · Jul 28, 2004

When I was talking to Jesse at Highangle drinvlines he said you alway's want your yoke on your differential in line with your driveshaft.

Broncoholics · Jul 28, 2004

Thats right! It helps the u-joint if its all in line. When its at a stock angle the driveline will bind with a lift and wear the u-joint out fast. You don't want to drop a driveline on the freeway. I've heard some nasty stories... @-)

Broncoholics · Jul 28, 2004

Forgot to say you can also cut the leaf spring mounting pads off the axle rotate the axle upwards to the desired angle and tac it in place. Then take everything off and weld it in good. Then you can get the correct leaf spring lift and have no blocks. >

stinger · Aug 1, 2004

more than likely you should put the factory wedge back in. I put on a BDS 4" rear kit (blocks and add a leafs) there instructions said to put there block on top of the factory wedge to keep the proper pinion angle. also there 4" kit raised the back end 6 1/2" . so i ended up changing front springs out and for there 6" springs and getting ready to put the 6" rear springs on and get rid of the block. Just my opinion wasn't to sure about the stacking blocks up on the rear end and extra long u-bolts that seem to always need to be retightened.