idle prob

stinger

New Member
85 351 4bl carb i cant get it to idle until warmed up . was having prob with original carb put on a new holley truck avenger and same problems. stalls when warmed up and step on the gas .even dies on fast idle when cold any ideas of what to check
 
how does it run warmed up?or going down the road?does it idle real high only?
you might have a vac leak.
I know a way to check for vac leaks that anyone can do but you have to be careful cause carb cleaner is flammible:start up your truck put the hose on a can of carb clean and very tediously spray around the carb and intake if the motor revs and smooths out at any time there's your leak.please be careful.
check your choke like he said 2 carbs same prob it's problly not the carb.
to set your floats start it up let it run shut it off and take out the big screw on the side of the float bowl gas should just fill the threads,if not turn the screw on top out for more or in for less.
is your timing on?not by ear either,i don't care what people say about timing by ear it only works sometimes,unless you know your truck and what your doing.
I know a little about the holley's and so does seabronc so if you run into some probs just ask.I also left a link in how to's holley lovers check it out and get to know your carb they are great once they are right
good luck
 
The first thing I'd like to ask is about your vacuum system. What has been disabled? Then is the exhaust and intake heat control still hooked up? what about the air intake cold wather system? If electric choke, have you tried adjusting it? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Have you timed the engine according to the Emissions control sticker? Have you done the cold idle adjustment according to the emissions sticker? Have you adjusted the curb idle according to the emissions sticker? What's the CFM of the Truck Evenger? If it's larger than 650 CFM then it is too big for a stock 351W. You actually get poorer performance out of an oversized carb because the secondaries won't function properly especially if they are vacuum secondaries. Also the engine can only suck in fuel and air at a given rate depending on displacement.

The reason for all but the last question is simple, All of that is necessary for a good start and run engine. Vacuum leaks will make it impossible to adjust and keep it that way. The carb bolts needs to be torqued properly, (5 - 10 in. lbs), in order to make sure there are no vacuum leaks at the base. Do not over torque or you may crack the base. In winter the air intake needs prewarmed air from the heat shroud over the right side manafold. The intake and exhaust heat control valves need to be operating to recirculate exhaust into the intake manafold when the engine is cold. You should be able to see the control valves pull in and then release as the engine starts to warm up, if not then something in that system is bad. The choke needs to be adjusted to pull off at the right time and temp, (usually you will need to adjust a new one to delay pull off). What do I need to say about idle adjustment other than the cold needs to be high enough to keeep it running until the engins warms up and the curb idle needs to be adjusted so the engine will stay running when it is hot and in gear. The idle adjustments depend on the timing being right.

My 85 351W sticker, for example only. It may not be exactly what you need for your truck.


Good luck,

:)>-
 

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