Cheap Spring Lift

[whattarush]

heres a trick ive used for years to get 4" of lift AND carry the wieght of a bigblock.
go to your local boneyard and buy a set of coils out of an older f350 2wd ,ive gotten my springs off early 70's trucks,allyou have to do to make them work on your 44 straight x is cut the very bottom wrap off cuz it curls in..they will fit right into the existing buckets and cups and give you roughly 4" lift,they are a heavier coil too,so they will carry the wieght of a big block
i think the most i ever paid was 30 buck for the pair...you can always cut wraps off to get a smaller lift,if you dont want to go into changing steering and susp.geometry >-

 

[Broncoholics]

Sounds like it would limit travel in the suspension using such stiff coils. The ride would be ok with a 460 motor but the down travel in the suspension would be zero. Just driving over a small 12" rock with one tire would lift the opposite front tire off the ground. Even having a locker will transfer 100% of the traction to the wheel that is touching ground and could breaking the axle shaft. I know from past experience with Rancho 3.5" coils!

 

[whattarush]

the spring travel is ok,remember these came off a 2x, they were soft enough to give you that"ford" ride,i ran 360/390 motors,which are a little heavier,but still comprable to the m-blocks and it wasnt any stiffer then the ranchos i tried one time,compression and travel were fine....i never tried those springs on a truck with a 300-6,you probly would be right about the compression factor,but to get the same lift and ride as putting in rancho's..you cant beat it for the price >-

 

[SaddleUp]

Remember to check state laws when doing this type of modification. In Washington you are not allowed to use coils that have been cut.

Rick

 

[Smitty]

The reason it's so easy is that the same engineeer that designed the F-Series 4x2 twin-beam suspension also did the springs for the Bronco and F100 4x4. Used the same tooling and diameters for all of 'em. Therefore it's the way to go. Also for those that want to wang heavy stuff on the front the F-350's with FT engines had higher rate and capacity springs.

 

[southerntrax]

That does sound like a great idea for a mud bog or just offroading truck. i am building a 89 bronco and now i am going to consider this trick.

 

[Broncoholics]

Just wondering Rick, are you taking about Washington State or Washington DC lift laws for cutting coils? I live in Washington State and have cut lots of coils. How would anyone know its not a aftermarket coil? Where are you located?
I do know you will not get this kind of flex with F350 coils...

 

[jfrbronco]

now thats some flex!!!
JFR-

 

[custom_78]

Broncoholics, what kind of coils are those?

 

[Tyrell_Shoaf]

so if i want to put a 6inc. lift on my 88 bronco all i have to buy is taller shocks, blocks for the back and coil springs that are made for a 6inc. lift

 

[custom_78]

Yep that what you have to do, but it would be better if you bought a lift kit because they come with all the brackets and hardware needed.

 

[Broncoholics]

I run Duff's 3.5" coils with a wristed radius arm to get the travel. You got to release the bind in the c-bushings to get lots of travel. Thats why I run a wristed arm. Works great! Its pinnable for street use (just like stock).

I always thought cutting the upper coil tower off the frame and lowering it an inch or two and welding back on is a cheap way of lifting the broncos. :blush:

 

[custom_78]

Are those just stock radius arms that are cut and modified to move. That would be a cool addition to my Bronco if it is as strong as the stockers are. like to do some jumping. :lol:



>-

 

[custom_78]

Is there stops in the wristed radius arm. My dad says that the axle will just spin over and rip off. How many degrees does it swivel.

 

[Broncoholics]

The wristed radius arm is a stock one that has been cut and beefed up. The wristed arm will only twist so far and stop. Take a look at the photo again, the upper shock mount will stop it from over traveling anyhow. Plus the driverside is not a wristed radius arm (stock arm) so this keeps the axle from wraping under the rig. I've heard of some bending the driverside radius arm because its the only thing holding the front end in place. I've never had the problem and I run 38.5" Swampers with 5:89 gears and detroit lockers. So far so good in 5 years running it. Its pinnable so if you like street driving or want to jump the truck, just install the pin and its just like a stock radius arm again. If you had two wristed arms the axle would rap under the truck like your dad is thinking. If you want a write-up on how to build it I'll send it your way.
Duff sells a longer radius arm which also takes the bind out of the c-bushings so the suspension works independently of each side. These are ridgid and will not bend but they are spendy. The wristed arm is a cheap way to gain flex. Plus if you have the tools you can make in your own garage! I have no complaints yet! You need long travel coils and shocks plus lengthen the brake lines. Here's a photo of mine installed. I have the shock mounted off the wristed arm bolt. I had the 3/4" bolt head drilled and tapped to take a 1/2" stud for the shock. The arm will not overtravel under the rig ever. It also make a softer rids off road. You just don't want to driving fast with the pin out. The truck will lean more than usual.

 

[Broncoholics]

I forgot to say do a search for "wristed radius arm" and you will see tons of people that have them and different styles. Let me know if you need anything else.

 

[custom_78]

Thanks for the reply. I guess my dad was right there is only one wristed arm.

 

[BLUEovalBELIEVER]

yeah i've lowered sring mounts before to get a couple inches of lift,i've had some stiff springs before in a 351w truck and it would jar your teeth loose,30$ would buy evrything for lowering and you'd still have the same ride
don't forget about your track arm and pitman arm

 

[Guest]

Thats cool!