351/400 Question

[1977f150]

Hey, I have never understood what it means or what it actually is. Will someone please tell me or give me a link that will tell me? Is it not as strong as a Cleveland or a Windsor, but it can be built into a 400?
Thanks

[snapback]6986[/snapback]​

the 351m is just a motor ford kept after the 351 cleaveland was discontinued because it was a stout engine with the right cam go with a .550 to .600 lift to get the rpm up to 6000 and have a good oiling system

 

[BlackFord77]

Whatever you do DON'T change to EFI. From 30 yrs. experience believe me- It's nothing more than a BIG EXPENSIVE pain where it didn't hurt. If you want real machinehead power get a supercharger. EFI my a**. Who needs all that extra and expensive crap that's bound to fail anyway. Injectors can clog up pretty easy over time. You can change jets in a carb. to compensate for a rebuilt engine down to where you need it. In EFI just try finding the right EXACT size injectors. And then piddleing around with the damn computer to try to get the right air/fuel mix. BLAH. Go retro. If you want a real engine-set up a 30's Ford flathead and look at all of the engine parts you no longer need. The only thing that beats that in repeat racing is the 4-bolt mains and awesome stock intake of a Boss 302. Anyhow I slapped a 1967 289 automatic in my '77 F100 Custom and my gas mileage and power are fine. Whoever says you need a big block for power never built up a 351 Windsor small block right. There's all kinds of stroker kits out there for them, and I've put many chevys to shame with them. Not to mention some computerized injection systems have rev (RPM) limits. The only hassle with a supercharger besides price is bearing maintenance (if you care for it properly), and building your motor to handle it -like installing a main cap girdle. Sorry if I sound like I'm in love with superchargers but (next to carburetors) I am.

 

[Slomar]

2 cents.... after reading the carb manual at edlebrock.com on my 1406 performer and actually figuring out jets and rods, I'm convinced that carbs are superior for the shade tree mechanic. Mileage is 80% a function of your A/F ratio! Carbs can adjust that anyway you want it. Sure, you'll have to figure out how to tweek it, and a trip through Colorado will warant a jet change, but if you can keep up with the A/R you'll get damn near the same mileage anyway. So like its been said earlier, if it aint broke, don't buy a $2000 mod to fix it. EFI? ...eh I could see it if you got the whole system and engine from a cheap doner.

 

[Billz4x4z]

the 351M/400 is a small block with big block transmission bolt pattern

[snapback]7171[/snapback]​

Technically its not a small block or a bigblock. but its a long story that I'm not willin to get into.

 

[Billz4x4z]

and the debate is still going on.Ok fine I have had a couple of them in the past and yeah they can be built for power and reliability.what I keep saying is why?
carbs are great too I still have a bunch of them laying around holding paper down.
no for real if it's not worth it to rebuild it don't,and if you got the money to blow on a rebuild like it would take to get a powerful reliable 351m/400 why not just spend it on a donor truck and get everything?
oh yeah sorry to offend all of ya'll 351m/400 fans,I used to be a big one too

[snapback]15182[/snapback]​

I think most here know FI is the way to go,especially if you wheel hilly areas or do alot of bouncin around,you can set up a carb to work good in these areas,if ya wanna do the research and trial and error work.I'll agree FI is the way to go.Most add on systems are not that technical either,but they are pricey.As far as offending anyone oh well they'll get over it.I'm a firm believer if ya build it right it'll go like hell no matter what it is.